An international research team has uncovered a unique formula for black eye makeup used between the 9th and 7th centuries BCE in the northwest region of present-day Iran. This discovery, made at the Kani Koter cemetery, reveals that the kohl contained natural graphite and manganese oxide, differing significantly from the typical lead-based kohl of the Ancient Near East.
The team, led by Dr. Silvia Amicone from the University of Tübingen’s Archaeometry working group, made this groundbreaking discovery while analyzing samples from the cemetery, located on the eastern border of the former Assyrian Empire. The findings, published in the journal Archaeometry, provide new insights into the cosmetic and cultural practices of the region during the Iron Age.
Unearthing Ancient Beauty Practices
Kani Koter, a burial site from the Iron Age, has yielded a wealth of artifacts, including mirrors and kohl application tools. Dr. Shelir Amelirad of Heidelberg University notes that the graves also contained early elite burials with rich grave goods, featuring elements of Assyrian style. Among these artifacts was a ceramic vessel holding a black powder, which upon analysis, revealed a previously unknown kohl formula.
“What we found revealed a completely new kohl formula,” explained Dr. Amicone. “Instead of lead or organic ingredients, which are typically found in the formulas of the time, graphite was used here, which adheres well to the skin and may have given it a strikingly shimmering metallic appearance.”
Scientific Techniques and Local Resources
The research team employed a range of scientific techniques to analyze the black powder, discovering that no organic substances were present in the makeup mixture. Dr. Amicone speculated, “We cannot say today whether such ingredients were deliberately omitted or whether they decomposed over time.”
The use of manganese oxide and natural graphite suggests a creative adaptation of locally available resources from the mineral-rich Zagros Mountains. “This discovery adds new details to our knowledge of personal adornment and appearance in the ancient world,” Amicone added, emphasizing its significance in understanding the cultural life of elites between Assyria and Iran.
Implications for Historical Understanding
Professor Dr. Dr. h.c. (Dōshisha) Karla Pollmann, president of the University of Tübingen, highlighted the broader implications of the discovery. “By using modern scientific methods, our researchers are constantly adding new building blocks to our knowledge of the cultural development of mankind,” she said.
This research not only enriches our understanding of ancient cosmetic practices but also opens a window into the social and cultural dynamics of the time. The unique kohl formula reflects the intricate interplay between local resources and cultural exchange across the Assyrian Empire’s fringes.
Future Research Directions
The study paves the way for further exploration into the material culture of the region. Researchers aim to investigate other burial sites and artifacts to build a more comprehensive picture of the era’s cosmetic and cultural practices.
As archaeologists continue to unearth and analyze ancient artifacts, each discovery contributes to a deeper understanding of human history and cultural evolution. The findings from Kani Koter underscore the importance of interdisciplinary research in uncovering the mysteries of the past.
